Two questions.
Hi Herb,
Here is the process I used.
a. Prep step: 6 oz. glass on 3/4" particle board cut to nearly the shape of the panels.
b. To get the decking stock, I used a 6' 4x4 post with an edge grain orientation that allowed me to mill the wood with the edge up to minimize twist. The strips are 2 1/8" X 3/16" thick. The wood is ipe. Ipe appears to be a cost effective teak and is harder. I will let you guys know if there are any issues with the panels moving forward. Ipe has a 50 year horizontal decking life when left untreated. I do not plan to treat the wood. The black lines are graphite + epoxy. Graphite UV stabilizes epoxy -- plus it looks like polysulfide calk without the burden.
c. Cut the margins and fit the strips onto the glass panel. Epoxy into place using thickened epoxy and 3/16" plastic tile spacers. I held everything together using spring clamps and boards. Do your best to clean out the grooves between the boards while the epoxy is wet.
d. Fill the gaps with epoxy + graphite. I used a ketchup bottle.
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e. Have someone sand the panel with a timesaver sander. Sand the top flat, then flip the panels over and sand off the particle board to expose the glass. Hand sand with DA to remove residual particle board. You now have a glass on wood panel.
f. Tape the panel with blue masking tape.
g. Epoxy into place using thickened epoxy much like setting a floor tile. I actually used a floor tile spreader to cover the panels.
There is a local boatbuilder from NZ who provided the inspiration for making the panels in this way + help with the vac pump step. (He also provided the grief for it taking too long) He used a similar approach on a boat he built which had a teak deck + graphite + epoxy and it held up very well.
He also just finished fitting a J24 rig onto a C&C 24 -- real nice boat for sale (don't sell your dawson, perhaps a second boat?):
http://unixbrain.org/steve/--
Regarding the autopilot. All that remains is the wheel piece so I can not comment on the draw.
josh