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Author Topic: Best Way to Remove Push/Pull Steering Cable?  (Read 1669 times)
josh_richard
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« on: June 01, 2009, 05:33:17 am »
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Hey All,

I have a 77' Dawson with a DA push/pull wheel setup.  The only issue with my boat from what I can tell is under the steering pedestal -- where the Balsa was, there is now composted balsa.  I spent the other night studying the steering makeup for the push/pull setup with the intent of removing the works to recore the cockpit sole.  I was able to get started enough to get stuck.  I am not impressed with how the wheel pedestal was installed as the installers drilled 4 bolt holes, and a diagonal hole to route the cables.  This exposed a lot of balsa core which was not sealed in any way.  Therefore, the compost.  This problem is infuriating, but unfortunately not uncommon across many production boats.  Back to the story...

Giving this a bit of thought after failing to remove the steering gear (punched in the collar) the removal of the steering setup seems easiest by using the following process:

- disconnect the cable from the rudder
- disconnect the throttle and shift cables
- unbolt the pedestal
- pull the entire mess out in one piece in reverse install fashion.

Saying all this, I removed the aft cabin sink base, and port storage bin and looked around.  I was able to remove the cable from the rudder end.  My boat has a ball-joint to stabilize the cable.  That joint is located just port side, on the transom.  I have heard the cables are problematic.  I am happy to report my cable appears to be in like new condition.  It has steel conduit connected to either side of the ball joint.  My guess is that is to give the cable more rigidity to translate into pushing or pulling, rather than flexing.  I did not get the joint disconnected due to time and loss of light. 

My question is a few fold:

- Is this the right approach and if so, how do you remove the cable from the transom enough to pull it back through the cockpit deck?  Is the next step to remove the ball joint and conduit?

Thanks a million for contributing.  I am enjoying this!

Josh Richard
Duluth, MN


 
josh_richard
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« Reply #1 on: June 06, 2009, 09:09:42 pm »
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<snip>
... the removal of the steering setup seems easiest by using the following process:

- disconnect the cable from the rudder
- disconnect the throttle and shift cables
- unbolt the pedestal
- pull the entire mess out in one piece in reverse install fashion.


- Is this the right approach and if so, how do you remove the cable from the transom enough to pull it back through the cockpit deck?  Is the next step to remove the ball joint and conduit?

A quick update:

I did get the pedestal off today.  I disconnected the cables at the pedestal and did not follow my instructions above.  The steps for removing the chain from the steering assembly:

- Loosen the bolt which holds the steering rack. 
- Turn the wheel to induce slack on the chain. 
- Drop the chain over the brass spline.
- Pull the pedestal housing
- remove the 7/16" bolt which holds the cable, pull the rack off the gear. 

After removal, I removed the top skin and found PLYWOOD not balsa.  Anyone else have plywood core on their boat?

I posted an image in the gallery on this site.

http://www.parkerdawson.com/index.php?action=mgallery;sa=album;id=12

Thanks,

Josh
duluth, mn
Herb posted steps before which were right on. 

 
rdubuque
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« Reply #2 on: June 06, 2009, 11:46:23 pm »
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Josh,

That is going to look fantastic.

Bob
josh_richard
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« Reply #3 on: September 25, 2009, 12:59:50 pm »
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http://www.parkerdawson.com/index.php?action=mgallery;sa=album;id=12
 
Last night, I fit the stand to the new deck and thought of you all.  Winter is in the air again.  I plan to take 2 days off soon to blow the dust out of the boat and restart the yanmar for good measure.

I posted photos of the current status.

cheers,

josh

 
herby
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« Reply #4 on: September 26, 2009, 03:07:13 pm »
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Hi Josh
Nice job, the sole looks great.

Two questions.

1. what is the wood you used for the cockpit sole?

2. It looks like you have a Raymarine autopilot, how does it proform and is there much battery drain?

Herb Owner of Hull # 237
In Astor Florida
Sail fast live slow
josh_richard
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« Reply #5 on: September 29, 2009, 12:44:06 pm »
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Two questions.


Hi Herb,

Here is the process I used.

a. Prep step:  6 oz. glass on 3/4" particle board cut to nearly the shape of the panels.

b. To get the decking stock, I used a 6' 4x4 post with an edge grain orientation that allowed me to mill the wood with the edge up to minimize twist.  The strips are 2 1/8" X 3/16" thick.  The wood is ipe.  Ipe appears to be a cost effective teak and is harder.  I will let you guys know if there are any issues with the panels moving forward.  Ipe has a 50 year horizontal decking life when left untreated.  I do not plan to treat the wood.  The black lines are graphite + epoxy.  Graphite UV stabilizes epoxy -- plus it looks like polysulfide calk without the burden.

c. Cut the margins and fit the strips onto the glass panel.  Epoxy into place using thickened epoxy and 3/16" plastic tile spacers.  I held everything together using spring clamps and boards.  Do your best to clean out the grooves between the boards while the epoxy is wet.

d. Fill the gaps with epoxy + graphite.  I used a ketchup bottle.

<recore>

e. Have someone sand the panel with a timesaver sander.  Sand the top flat, then flip the panels over and sand off the particle board to expose the glass.  Hand sand with DA to remove residual particle board.  You now have a glass on wood panel.

f. Tape the panel with blue masking tape.

g. Epoxy into place using thickened epoxy much like setting a floor tile.  I actually used a floor tile spreader to cover the panels.

There is a local boatbuilder from NZ who provided the inspiration for making the panels in this way + help with the vac pump step.  (He also provided the grief for it taking too long)  He used a similar approach on a boat he built which had a teak deck + graphite + epoxy and it held up very well. 

He also just finished fitting a J24 rig onto a C&C 24 -- real nice boat for sale (don't sell your dawson, perhaps a second boat?):

http://unixbrain.org/steve/

--

Regarding the autopilot.  All that remains is the wheel piece so I can not comment on the draw.

josh

 
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« Reply #6 on: September 29, 2009, 02:32:59 pm »
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Hi Josh
Do you think the IPE material could be used on the cabin sole? perhaps a mitered joint at the port side forward cornor where it turns up, I have I/O carpet at present. The wood, would make a nice touch.
This winter I plan to do teak veneer on the the cubby hole panels

Herb Owner of Hull # 237
In Astor Florida
Sail fast live slow
josh_richard
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« Reply #7 on: September 29, 2009, 09:37:39 pm »
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Hi Josh
Do you think the IPE material could be used on the cabin sole? perhaps a mitered joint at the port side forward cornor where it turns up, I have I/O carpet at present. The wood, would make a nice touch.
This winter I plan to do teak veneer on the the cubby hole panels

I have thought about that change.  The cabin sole has a compound curve so I think you would have to pin-nail the board or vac the panel in place.  It is nice wood and from what I hear varnishes well.  That C&C above has ipe grab rails (not in the photo) and from what I heard, it looks beautiful when varnished.

I can not stress enough how important it is when working with ipe to have excellent ventilation.  The dust contains silica and is an allergen.  I have never had allergies or sneezed but just mitering 3/16" stock on the chop saw I noticed the discomfort.  Others report nose bleeds.  Since you are in florida, you may have better luck finding it locally.  In MN, I just lucked out and found a yard that was stuck with a bunch of odd sizes and posts.  The shipping costs makes small jobs impossible.  Menards (which we have in the area) carries brazilian teak which was nice and is available special order.  The problem with that is it is only 5/4 thick and you really need to hand pick the pieces carefully to get the grain orientated properly.

josh

 
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