josh_richard
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« on: October 19, 2007, 04:03:30 pm » |
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Hi Everyone! Last weekend, I purchased a 1977 PD 26 from Ray Pritchett through an add posted on this site. Hull #272 (I think). I am excited about the condition of the boat and can not wait until it is in the water. Progress tracked here: https://secure.camulus.org/joshrichard/published/HomePageOne of the only problems short of a cleanup, hardware re-bed, and cockpit sole re-core (around the pedestal) is the rear hatch blew off while trailering. The most reasonable approach to obtaining a replacement hatch would be as follows: 1. Does anyone have or know anyone who has an available rear hatch for sale? or 2. Does anyone have or know anyone who has an available rear hatch to ******* out. This would be on a temp basis so I could take a mold off the hatch. The *******ed hatch would return waxed and shiny. If you were interested, I could also arrange to send you an extra hatch for your troubles, or keep one around for anyone else on the list who loses their hatch while on the road. I can not believe the boat I have is alone in the hatch loss... Regards, Josh Richard Duluth, MN
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josh_richard
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« Reply #1 on: October 19, 2007, 04:07:12 pm » |
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The *** above should be *******ed and *******.
Not sure what happened.
-jr
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josh_richard
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« Reply #2 on: October 19, 2007, 04:10:29 pm » |
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sfisher
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« Reply #3 on: October 20, 2007, 04:36:41 am » |
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Josh, Welcome to the group. You will learn to love the boat. I purchased hull 270 the past summer and had a great adventure in the San Juan Island with my Grandson.
Hull 270 is a Dawson 27 built in North Las Vegas. Sometime later the operation moved to Florida and later became Parker Dawson in New England. Is your boat a DAWSON ? Name plate seems visible in your photo of the front cabin, but just as a bright rectangle on the overhead.
I had my boat hauled to San Francisco from north of Seattle, about 1,000 miles with no problems. Truck was a 3/4 ton Dodge Ram. What did you use? These boats are not light !!
Your steering would benefit from good support. Many folks on other boats have used plywood or metal backing to improve the strength of the base.
Take a look at your steering. Mine has the initials DA on the hub nut and a few other spots on the assembly. I've found that this was the Don Allen Company, which went out of business the same year our boats were built. I haven' found a source of spare parts yet. Edson system would be the ideal, but their parts do not interchage with the DA design. Parker Dawson all had EDSON. What do you have?
The rear hatch is heavy glass, but not super tight on dimension, so could be made from wood or glass molded without much fuss. An opportunity might exist to make the hatch a slider. Not possible up front, due to the mast position, but worth a look for the aft cabin.
My wife and I slept in the aft cabin for more than a week. A little narrow, but we did OK.
You will see many comments from the group about the keel. Really important to make sure that the support/pivot pin that holds the keel is really in good shape. That would require removal of the whole keel box system. Check the atchives for comments on this process. Not trivial, but critical. One boat lost a keel last year.The previous owner of our boat showed me the one that he took our and it really scared me. Could/should have failed with any slight load.
Have at it and keep us posted.
Steve Hull 270
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Steve in San Jose Dawson 26, "Banana Split" Hull 270
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josh_richard
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« Reply #4 on: October 21, 2007, 09:28:40 pm » |
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Good to spend time with the grandkids. My wife and I have #2 due any day now and my son (3yrs) claimed the aft cabin already.
My boat is a Dawson hull #272 and I towed the boat home with a '95 Suburban. Thanks for the tips regarding the steering pedestal. Has anyone moved the steering pedestal aft to center it in the cockpit? My boat has the DA steering pedestal and push-pull cable. That system appears to be in working order.
Also, today I ran the Yanmar YSB8 for the first time after swapping out the fuel, fuel filter, oil filter, impeller, and fuel lines. Everything went well and the engine started instantly once I figured out how to properly bleed the fuel system. It is now properly winterized and does give the boat personality.
I talked with friends who manage a marina and will plan a keel drop out, sandblast and epoxy before deployment. In addition, It will be a good time to inspect the pins and crane assembly to ensure a problem free future.
More soon.
Josh
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sfisher
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« Reply #5 on: October 23, 2007, 04:58:24 am » |
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Josh, Sounds like you are off to a good start. Do a ,"Search," under Keel to get as much info a possible before having the yard start. I've not done mine, but recall you need to be able to locate all the bolts that hold the box in place.
Keep in mind that there are a group of 3 pins involved. The most important seems to be the Pivot Pin. It is a 6 inch by 1 inch stainless pin with cotter pin hols near each end. Easy to make at any machine shop. This one is the most likely problem area and could cause the loss of the keel if not maintained.
The second is the pin that the keel cable attaches to.
The third is the keel locking pin which screws into the case from above and enters a hole in the top of the keel when the keel is down. The PD system may be the only one that uses this type of pin.
There is a photo of this pin on one web page. I'll try to get a clearer pin up on the web page soon.
Fairwind has suggested checking the pulley between the winch and keel. If it is worn, you could expect to have the cable get jammed, then life become unpleasant.
Go for it, you have a long winter ahead.
Steve
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Steve in San Jose Dawson 26, "Banana Split" Hull 270
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rdubuque
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« Reply #6 on: October 24, 2007, 04:46:28 pm » |
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Josh,
A hearty welcome from Sturgeon Bay,WI. You are more than welcome to borrow my hatch this winter if you like. That would be quite a drive but maybe something else could be worked out.
I also had my rear hatch blow off while trailering and would recommend that all owners lock the hatch before taking off, ditto on the forward hatch.
I know you will love the boat. I would be interested to hear what the keel work sets you back and how it goes.
Welcome aboard,
Bob
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josh_richard
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« Reply #7 on: October 24, 2007, 05:00:04 pm » |
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Thanks for the advice. I will forward that information to the marina when the keel assembly is checked. I will post the costs when this is done. Likely early summer. Regarding costs: the keel check in addition to acquiring a mooring, and other needs (cockpit sole recore) will likely push the launch date out a year from spring. This is okay -- I want to ensure the boat has had its critical systems checked and am sure the extra effort will give the boat a more reliable future. Bob, I can not thank you enough for the hatch. Good to see MN and WI folks can get along even though they have opposing football teams  I will email you offline to arrange something. Thanks again. Josh
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josh_richard
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« Reply #8 on: February 24, 2008, 07:09:45 am » |
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Hi Bob, Is there any way you can take a few measurements off your rear hatch? I am going to cook up a prototype and get started on the layup. To make it easier you can fill in the blanks on the following image link. https://secure.camulus.org/joshrichard/published/Rear+Hatch+SchematicThanks, josh
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herby
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« Reply #9 on: February 24, 2008, 09:44:30 pm » |
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Hi Josh The upstream server has gone down....So here are measurments. Out side width 39 1/2 Out side lenght 24 1/4 Camber or chord highth 1 3/4 @ CL Drart at sides is an inclured angle of 28 degrees Front side 28 degrees hinge side 12 degrees The flange width at the sides is 1 3/4, on the hinge side 1 1/2 on the front side 2 Lay-up thickness is 3/16 at edge and appears to have a 3/8 or 1/2 core If you establish the camber and the sides everything else should fall into place
If you go right to female mold you can make filets using kids modeling clay and drag a piece or 3/4 PVC to get a nice radius. and Johnsons past wax makes a very good release Email or call if I can help.
Herb Owner of Hull # 237 In Astor Florida Sail fast live slow
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Herb Owner of Hull # 237 In Astor Florida Sail fast live slow
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josh_richard
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« Reply #10 on: February 25, 2008, 01:21:34 pm » |
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Herb,
Thanks for filling in the blanks. For what it is worth, the site is online. My guesses were close -- it is always good to verify before layup. If I could post .PNG files, I could have posted the image here. I will convert and repost soon.
The plan is to use melamine + polyester bondo with a PVA release. I need to acquire a gallon of polyester resin, but plan to start on the mold this week.
I may give you a ring along the way.
Thanks,
Josh
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josh_richard
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« Reply #11 on: February 25, 2008, 11:12:13 pm » |
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Herb, With the given chord height, is the total height at the centerline 3.75" at the front? If so, does the following image make sense: Thanks a lot, Josh Download Attachment: rhatch_schematic.jpg33.49 KB
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josh_richard
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« Reply #12 on: April 10, 2008, 01:56:37 am » |
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quote: Originally posted by sfisher
The third is the keel locking pin which screws into the case from above and enters a hole in the top of the keel when the keel is down. The PD system may be the only one that uses this type of pin.
There is a photo of this pin on one web page. I'll try to get a clearer pin up on the web page soon.
Steve, Does this pin have threads and a slotted end for a large screwdriver and is located forward of the winch? If so, I think my boat has the locking pin. It is a Dawson.
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rdubuque
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« Reply #13 on: April 12, 2008, 10:13:37 pm » |
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Yes, that is what it looks like. I am not sure what you are supposed to do if you bend or break the pin as was intended. I think I am going to drill a hole in mine and put a bolt through it into the keel.
Any better ideas??
Bob
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josh_richard
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« Reply #14 on: May 11, 2008, 03:59:17 am » |
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quote: Originally posted by rdubuque
Any better ideas??
Bob
Not yet. Do you have a fixed keel boat then? Does your keel go up and down and not pin?
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