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Author Topic: Wheel steering access  (Read 2245 times)
Lil Dino
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« on: January 28, 2008, 01:37:54 pm »
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I am going to remove the steering cable from the wheel steering pedistal and don't see an easy way to access the cable. Does anyone know how to access the cable or do I need to remove the pedestal? I appreciate any assistance.

Thanks,
Alan
76 Dawson Hull #210

 
herby
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« Reply #1 on: January 28, 2008, 02:47:28 pm »
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Hi Alan
You will need to remove the pedestal in order to remove/replace the cable.
Remove the compass
Remove the engine control ring and engine cables
Remove the bolts that retain the steering wheel axel
Remove the 4 nuts that fasten the pedestal, these are accessable from the quarter bearth
Remove the chain from the sprockets, you may then lift pedestal off. The square tube and drive sprocket will need to be removed to pull the cable back thru the hole in the cockpit sole.
On the rudder end you will need to remove the center and port side shelves and work blind to unfasten the cable from the lever that moves the rudder cage.
This sound harder than it really is.
Hope this helps.

Herb owner of Hull # 237
In Astor Florida
Sail fast live slow

Herb Owner of Hull # 237
In Astor Florida
Sail fast live slow
sfisher
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« Reply #2 on: January 28, 2008, 04:15:10 pm »
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GOOD ON YOU GUYS !I've been avoiding this project, but know I must face it soon, even if only to do a thorough lube of the system.  The steering is awfully heavy as it is !

With my new knee finally getting better, I may be able to try it soon.  I've been worried about getting down in the lazarette, only to be unable to climb back out.

Over the years, there have been a few narratives of how to do this, but I can't find them.  Would anyone care to relate their experience?

Has anyone bought a new wheel steering cable, or done a good clean-up and lube?

I know Bob Dubuque did something with his tiller cable.

Alan, please share your experience.

Herb's access info for the rudder connection is what I had feared.  I have both of the little cabinets out and was trying to avoid removing the big one in the center.  It has never been removed and would require taking out the wooden plugs over the screws.  Not difficult, but the wood all looks so nice now, that I hate to mess it up.
I was hoping that with two folks, one could reach in from each side.  

Last comment.  My best information on this system is that it was made by the Don Allen Company, which went out of business in the late 1970s. Anyone heard of a source of parts ? Edson steering gear is not compatable according to Edson.

Steve Johnson did a complete switch over to EDSON at significant cost. Do remember, that the Parker Dawson series were rigged with EDSON from the factory.



Steve in San Jose
Dawson 26, "Banana Split"
Hull 270

Steve in San Jose
Dawson 26, "Banana Split"
Hull 270
Lil Dino
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« Reply #3 on: January 29, 2008, 04:11:04 pm »
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Thanks Steve and Herb for all the information. I already have the cabinet in the aft cabin removed and have the cable detached from the rudder cage. I don't think there is any way to access the cable at the rudder without removing the cabinet. I tried accessing the cable by removing the port side small cabinet but it's really tight in there and I couldn't get in there to remove the hardware from the rudder. I'll post the results of the removal lubrication of the cable and chain etc.
Alan
76 Dawson Hull #210

 
Chris Karo
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« Reply #4 on: May 03, 2008, 02:48:25 pm »
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I had to remove the whole cable assembly and replace it with parts from Edson.  I had to do some modification to these parts, but I ended up with a pull/pull system that works great.  If you need the info on what I ordered from Edson, email me and I'll send you copies of the invoice.  I live 5 minutes from the Edson home in New Bedford, MA, so I was able to visit in person and the staff was very helpful.  The even pulled from their files info on the PD.

Chris Karo
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Plymouth MA
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Chris Karo
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josh_richard
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« Reply #5 on: June 01, 2009, 05:43:58 am »
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<font color="blue">Hi Alan
You will need to remove the pedestal in order to remove/replace the cable.
Remove the compass
Remove the engine control ring and engine cables
Remove the bolts that retain the steering wheel axel
Remove the 4 nuts that fasten the pedestal, these are accessable from the quarter bearth
Remove the chain from the sprockets, you may then lift pedestal off. The square tube and drive sprocket will need to be removed to pull the cable back thru the hole in the cockpit sole.
On the rudder end you will need to remove the center and port side shelves and work blind to unfasten the cable from the lever that moves the rudder cage.
This sound harder than it really is.
Hope this helps.

Herb owner of Hull # 237
In Astor Florida
Sail fast live slow</font id="blue">

Hi Herb,

I am cross-posting here.  I got stuck removing the chain from the wheel axle.  I could not clear the chain from the axle.  I was hung up on the steering gear attached to the axle.  I have a DA push/pull setup.

 
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« Reply #6 on: July 25, 2009, 06:14:40 pm »
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Josh,  how have you done.

Steve in San Jose
Dawson 26, "Banana Split"
Hull 270
josh_richard
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« Reply #7 on: August 10, 2009, 03:03:56 pm »
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I added some photos to the gallery.  I have a few more to add. 
Pedestal out, old core out, new core in.

The laminate was unbalanced with the inside skin of the glass very light.  Before I installed the core I added about 20 oz glass to the inside using polyester resin.  Then vacuumed the core (end grain balsa) in place using more mat glass.  Where the bolt/cable holes were I used a 12"x12" coosaboard tile which is impervious to water.  From there, I built up the glass to meet the deck on the perimiter of the repair and have  1 more layer to bridge everything together.  Everything is real solid now.  This was a lot of work.

By next weekend I plan to have the panel I made over the winter installed.  That will feel good as it will hide the repair and add more structure to the deck which can not hurt.

More soon.

 
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« Reply #8 on: August 10, 2009, 04:28:21 pm »
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To get to the photos of that project, choose:

gallery, then user albums, Dawson 26 Cockpit recore...

http://www.parkerdawson.com/index.php?action=mgallery;sa=album;id=12

 
herby
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« Reply #9 on: August 11, 2009, 02:54:54 pm »
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Hi all
The main cause of soft spots on the deck of hull #237 was not from water incursion, ( #237 has closed cell foam core) but the failure of the 1 ply of 10oz cloth the makes up the composit structure, take away one skin or the other and there isn't any strenght.

Good job Josh

Herb Owner of Hull # 237
In Astor Florida
Sail fast live slow
josh_richard
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« Reply #10 on: August 11, 2009, 06:23:23 pm »
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Thanks Herb,

Is your entire boat foam?

In talking to others around here, most manufacturers used unbalanced laminates.  In the case of boats with wheels, this does not bode well for pedestal nuts.  Building up the inside skin should be a requirement for any recores.
Using the vac pump should be considered -- it helped a lot.  Given the keel trunk, you are not really able to support the inside skin and use weights as recommended by others.  If you do not draw the parts together, there is opportunity for never-lams.

-josh


 
herby
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« Reply #11 on: August 12, 2009, 02:18:33 pm »
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All of the core in #237 is closed cell PVC foam, with the exception of the cockpit sole, foredeck /stem head fitting area and the main sheet winch area which is marine plywood

Herb Owner of Hull # 237
In Astor Florida
Sail fast live slow
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