There should be three  items installed on your boat that can make this really a simple deal.

Close to the mast, on the cabin top should be a wooden block to each side. This pair of blocks each have an eyestrap screwed to/through them into the cabintop  That position allows them to be on the same plane as the mast pivot point.

On the bottom of your boom, you should also find an eye strap at least half way out, perhaps more,( trying to go from memory. )

The third element is your mainsheet.  To make this work, it has to be about 75 feet long.

There was a diagram of the wire straps that you can connect from those cabintop eye straps to the boom .  Their function is simply to keep the boom centered while using it as a gin pole to raise the mast.

Now, I have to tell you that I sweated about making up those wires to be exactly the right length and have the right fittings.  Don't even worry about making them.  I realized that I had a couple of small adjustable tie down straps in my junk drawer.  The hooks of the ends fit the eyestraps just fine, and the straps could be adjusted to be the right  length to keep the boom centered.   New ones are less than 10 bucks per set, and the standard strength seems more than enough. 

Start this with two folks.  With the mast laying forward from the base plate,   and with the hinge pin in place,attach the topping lift to the end of the boom,  you can have your helper hold the boom verticle while you install and adjust the two side straps.  The boom will then stay in place and be your gin pole.

At this  point, you want your forestay attached, along with the foward shrouds.  The backstay MUST BE ATTACHED to the boom, by the so called topping lift, (The short section of wire that is crimped to the backstay and holds the boom up while at anchor) The rest of the backstay is not yet attached to the stern and won't be until the mast is up and held in place by the tension provided by your mainsheet.

This establishes the pulling rig for raising your mast.  It helps to have you helper at the bow  pull the mast tip up a bit to improve you angle, but can by done with a little more force on your own. Using the mainsheet, slowly raise the mast until fully vertical and the mast plate is flat.

You can now lock the mainsheet, and attach the rear shrouds and backstay.  If you are planning to do this often, you might want to look into some quick disconnects for those points.  Johnson makes some often used versions.

I secure a line, mid boom and when the boom is vertical as a gin pole, run it through shackles attached to the base of the stantions on either side of the mast, and then back to the winches and cleat it off.  this keeps the boom straight.

I attach the topping lift and the main halyard to the end of the boom in case one fails.  If you add a 2nd line to the main sheet you can extend it all the way up to the mast base, if you are short handed.  With much effort I raised my mast by myself in Key West (not recommended).

Be careful to watch the shrouds so that they do not get twisted and bend as the mast gets to full height.  I have done this 2x.

Good luck, next time I will try to have someone take a video, maybe you could as well and we can compare notes.

Bob

Here is a diagram of the mast bridle:  http://www.parkerdawson.com/*-misc-other-files/parker-dawson-mast-bridle-spec/

You can also find it under misc-other-files on this forum.