Gebo 81.70.00.20 Aluminum 24 x 6 1/8 Inch Opening Boat Portlight / Window from    http://greatlakesskipper.com/

$1300 ish for all 7 but they look sweet

warning: Gebos dont have curves like stock windows/portlights so u have to get creative and 2 of the openings need to be enlarged about 4" which hypothetically could weaken the roof.....all openings need to be enlarged a little



chris

         

Chris:
Where did you buy the Gebo portlights and what sizes did you buy? What modifications to the openings were made? I have heard that the Gebo portlights are top-quality. The one in the image you posted looks great! Nice job.

Hi all,
        Chris from Ct. here, first post. Owner of hull #201 june of 74.....formerly "Nola" now "Nola Jude".

Bought boat near Key West from a cool dude named Gary who also owns hull # eighty something.

I plan on posting more soon as I have made, am making, or will be making some unorthodox modifications.
Todays post is about windows. I replaced all 7 windows with "gebo" brand windows that are tinted and open and close.
I was able to not break 5 of the old ones and am offering them to you guys. Free if u need em...u pay shipping.
Not in great shape but..........someone might need em

Thank you guys for all the useful info, this forum talked me into buying this boat.

chris

 

I just put an outboard on my boat and put the control at the aft end of the cockpit, because that is where I steer from with the tiller over the aft cabin.  The guy who installed it ran the cables under the bunk in the aft cabin and into the cockpit. 

The only problem I have is that rain gets into the hole where the cables go through the hull.  Need to figure out how to correct this.  Had it done at the dealer, he should have known how to do it right.  I think the cables need to be long enough so that they don't make a downhill path for rain into the boat.

Liked the inboard much better from a steering standpoint, though love the reliability and quite ride in the cokpit.

Bob

the boat that i have been restoring came with an outboard motor. the prop shaft and skeg for the cutlass bearing was already gone.i have the engine mounted and need to figure out control cable configuration.the controls for the engine are mounted in the port cockpit locker.the boat has control cables that seem to be longer than they need to be.i want to know if i could put the motor in the downward position and leave it there during the sailing season.i think that the cables are longer to enable raising and lowering of the motor.they look terrible and that is why i want to shorten them.the motor is a yamaha 9.9 horsepower.i think when i get it figured out i will have a really good boat.any help appreciated.thanks

Here are some pics of my 2nd version of the tiller over the aft cabin.  Working very well.  Still working out a few details.

Bob

https://www.sugarsync.com/pf/D07992_125846_6354944

Added a bimini support so that my bimini can be at the aft end of the cockpit and still not interfere with the tiller.  Can move the support base forward and it acts as the support when bimini is up.  I should be able to leave it at the high or low level.  Worry a bit about a jibe and the main sheet taking it out when up though.  Now my visibility forward is unobstructed.  Fun cheap project.

https://www.sugarsync.com/pf/D07992_125846_6354928

Sorry, I meant port side. 

It ought to be in the lazarette (storage compartment) on the starboard side of the cockpit.  Close to the back side of the battery switch.

On what body of water will you be sailing your mainship and what is her name?

My husband and I just bought a Midship 25, built in 1973 and we are having trouble finding the battery. Can someone enlighten us. Thanks Deb