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Author Topic: Blasa core thickness  (Read 2460 times)
Lil Dino
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« on: January 07, 2008, 06:34:32 pm »
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I need to replace some of the core in the deck and wanted to know if anyone knows the thickness of the blasa core. I have a 1977 dawson ketch hull #210. Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Alan in NC

 
herby
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« Reply #1 on: January 07, 2008, 07:41:49 pm »
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Hi Alan
I put a Bomar hatch on the fordeck ( it realy lights up the fore cabin) of my hull # 237 and the core thickness is 1/2 inch, however, it's not balsa but closed cell PVC.
If you have a Defender marine catalog, they show balsa and the PVC cores on page 200, with the balsa being $15.00 less expensive for a 2 X 4 sheet
I believe the balsa will conform to the camber better.
You can also get a 3" diamond wheel for not to much $$$.
Composition wheels are cheap but dangerous
Don't forget the saftey glasses!!!!
I think I mentioned that the interior liner is not part of the composite structure, so I would cut the deck skin which is .125 thick our first that way you don't have to work upside down.
Good luck on the project.
Herb
In Astor Florida
Sail fast Live slow

Herb Owner of Hull # 237
In Astor Florida
Sail fast live slow
rdubuque
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« Reply #2 on: January 08, 2008, 01:35:26 am »
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I drilled out the a portion of my foredeck arount the cowl vent and injected epoxy after it had dried out.  My deck was cored with some sort of wood, my guess would be balsa.  It was quite soggy and mushy.

Bob
Hull #8
rdubuque
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« Reply #3 on: January 08, 2008, 01:36:34 am »
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And about 1/2" thick
Lil Dino
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« Reply #4 on: January 09, 2008, 05:46:19 pm »
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Thanks for the information. Now I can get order the materials so I can get the work started.
Alan in NC

 
josh_richard
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« Reply #5 on: January 15, 2008, 02:55:33 am »
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Hi,

Herb, it is curious that you had closed cell foam foredeck.  Is the closed cell used anywhere else that is flat?

I am also working on some core replacement starting with the engine hatch cover.  On my boat, that core is 1/4" plywood.  Easily replaced by exterior grade CDX and epoxy.  

Today, I received my first order of bits for this and other recore work -- 6qt of epoxy!  Good prices from raka:

http://www.raka.com (6qt 127 resin + medium speed hardner was $108 delivered).

Also, I have a contact for gelcoat color matching.  I think 1 gallon is about $70 matched and delivered given a 1X1 sample.  Email offline for details....

Regards,

josh richard
duluth, mn
Dawson 26 Hull #272

 
herby
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« Reply #6 on: January 15, 2008, 04:49:00 pm »
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Hi Josh
Closed cell foam is used through out the deck on hull #237, except for the cockpit sole and the cockpit coaming where the winches and cleats are mounted which has plywood, as I found foam when I Installed  a 14x30 hatch on the starboard side cockpit seat and repaired the port side locker hatch, I elimated the quarter bearth and built a "pantry" aft of the dinette seat and a bulkhead in the aft cabin ala the port side, this gives me as much easily accessable stowage as the port side locker.

It seem to me that the foam/balsa thing had somthing to do with a change of owners construction ideology, something for the PD history buffs amoung us to research.

Herb
In Astor Florida
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Herb Owner of Hull # 237
In Astor Florida
Sail fast live slow
sfisher
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« Reply #7 on: January 17, 2008, 05:35:06 am »
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I have no direct info the the coring, but do recall that when John Alland first checked in, he was asking for a boat with plywood core.

I'll see if I can reach him to find out what he knows.  He worked in the plant for a while, mostly on rigging and marketing, doing demo sails etc.

Steve

Steve in San Jose
Dawson 26, "Banana Split"
Hull 270

Steve in San Jose
Dawson 26, "Banana Split"
Hull 270
josh_richard
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« Reply #8 on: January 18, 2008, 04:07:57 am »
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Thanks again guys.

It would be nice to have clarification.  I have a copy of a 1977 brochure and it states the cockpit sole is balsa cored.  Since these are production boats, you would think they would have used what was relatively available at the time.  If I were to guess, I would suspect plywood over balsa in the common case.

I remember digging around under the steering pedestal on my boat when we were inspecting the squishyness.  I am not sure if what I pulled out was balsa or plywood.  It was mush and will be replaced once our temps are above -20F and the snow melts.

josh richard
duluth, mn
Dawson 26 Hull #272

 
Lil Dino
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« Reply #9 on: February 05, 2008, 08:44:12 pm »
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I just cut open the deck on my Dawson 26 hull #210. The balsa core on either side of the cabin top is 3/8" thick. It was all rotted out and basically just some small pieces and a fine dust.I will post pictures as soon as I can. I also found out that the balsa wood in those areas are limited to a narrow section running along side the cabin basically inside the non-skid pattern. I made the mistake of trying to cut outside of the non-skid portion of the deck and ended up cutting through the pocket that was made for the core to sit in. It will take a little more glass work from the inside but won't be too bad to fix. Next will be the cockpit seat and part of the sole.
Alan

 
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« Reply #10 on: February 07, 2008, 06:07:56 pm »
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Glad to see someone else is tackling the sole.  I have yet to start.  Hopefully this is a prod to send photos:

Here is link to the current process on the engine hatch.  When complete, I will post a PDF to this site:

https://secure.camulus.org/joshrichard/published/EngineHatchProgress

Progress is current as of last night.

Josh





 
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« Reply #11 on: February 09, 2008, 05:46:15 am »
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Josh,  any thoughts of sound deadening as well ?


Steve in San Jose
Dawson 26, "Banana Split"
Hull 270

Steve in San Jose
Dawson 26, "Banana Split"
Hull 270
rdubuque
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« Reply #12 on: February 09, 2008, 04:31:15 pm »
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This is a sore point for me with the boat.  My Vire 7hp, two stroke is fairly noise.  My solution thus far is a few layers of rubber backed indoor outdoor carpet to cover the engine hatch while underway. I used to use an extra cushion that fit over the engine hatch which worked even better. My latch for the engine cover is gone and needs to be replaced as well, this could help. I might have enough under the hatch to add 1/2" of insulation.

I am planning to add a 1-2" layer of foil backed insulation under the step into the aft cabin.  The noise in the aft cabin while motoring is terrible.  This should be a very easy project.  I will take a few pics when I get it done.  

Finding it hard to get motivated with a foot of snow on the ground. No excuse really as I have a great cover and space heater as well.
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« Reply #13 on: February 09, 2008, 08:25:42 pm »
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Regarding sound, my Dawson has a Yanmar YSB8 which appears to run smoothly but could benefit from a bit of sound reduction.  The auto industry is your source for sound deadening products.  I am considering purchasing dynamat if after the boat is in the water, the sound is too great.

http://www.dynamat.com/products_automotive_dynapad.html

You get the added benefit of heat protection in addition to the sound reduction.


 
josh_richard
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« Reply #14 on: February 09, 2008, 08:29:04 pm »
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quote:
Originally posted by rdubuque
<snip>

Finding it hard to get motivated with a foot of snow on the ground. No excuse really as I have a great cover and space heater as well.



I just drove to my boat and sat in the tarp to keep the momentum going.  Most of the work I am doing at this time is inside work as working outside is impossible.  We are in the middle of a ground blizzard.

Josh

 
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