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Author Topic: painting deck non skid  (Read 566 times)
robisons
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« on: July 07, 2011, 12:02:34 am »
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i am going to paint my midship. i have sanded the bottom and the hull. i don`t know  how to prep the deck. the nonskid has a lot of wear and i am not sure how to go about sanding or if the nonskid should be sanded at all. i was told by one person to scrub the surface with comet cleaner or ajax instead of sanding. i also have a soft spot about 6 inches from the mast base that is about 12 inches square. the soft spot is not terribly bad but i can tell that it is a little bit weak. a lot of work, but hopefully worth it in the end. thanks for any help.
jhaley_100
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« Reply #1 on: July 07, 2011, 09:44:02 pm »
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I had my boat painted a year ago with awl grip.  They sanded the non-skid, primed it and then masked it off so that the non-skid could be painted a different color than the white deck. 

Originally my non-skid parts were light blue.  I changed the color to whisper grey.  Awl grip makes a product called griptex, which consists of tiny sand-like pellets, which you use to renew the non-skid.  It comes in two grits.  We used the large grit first but I thought it was too rough so we switched to the fine grit for the rest of the boat. 

The first coat of paint is applied to the non skid and the pellets are shaken over the wet paint with a large salt-shaker.  Then two more coats were sprayed on over the pellets.  I like the way it turned out.  I am still working on the boat, so I cannot tell you how durable it is yet.

Midship 25
Hull #38
Elk River
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« Reply #2 on: July 08, 2011, 01:39:07 am »
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You might check out Good Old Boat magazine, Issue 76, Jan/Feb 2011.  There is an article about non-skid out of a can.  Called KiwiGrip, it apparently has been in use in New Zealand for 15 or more years.  It appears to be available from pachena.com in Seattle, WA, 206-306-2222.  The article states that no sanding is necessary when the product is applied over existing factory non-skid.  The non-skid is achieved by way of a special roller.  The company's website should have some more information.  I haven't used this yet, but like the concept and will keep it in mind when I re-finish my hull #4.
Elk River
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« Reply #3 on: July 08, 2011, 01:40:36 am »
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Oops! That is hull # 42.
pprescott
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« Reply #4 on: July 13, 2011, 11:51:43 pm »
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I am interested in what you find in the soft spot near the mast step and how you deal with it. With the hull liner, re-coring seems like it has to be done from above. Not an issue if you're going to paint the deck. My boat hasn't shown any sign of core rot except in one small spot in the top of the coming where the engine compartment vent is mounted. Fixed now. I'll be interested to hear about your repair if you make one.

I think scrubbing with Ajax or an abrasive using a hard bristle brush would be suitable for the non-skid before painting. I made the mistake of doing so on another boat to remove an oil stain. It roughed up the gel coat like fine sandpaper. I have read many times that one necessity in painting is to clean the surface with a wax remover like methyl ketone to remove any residual mold wax.

 
robisons
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« Reply #5 on: July 19, 2011, 11:04:29 pm »
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my soft spot was not very big. i drilled a hole 3/4 inch and then vacumed and put a piece of wire inside to loosen any small pieces of wood and then filled the hole with epoxy resin. the spot seems to be just fine now. i also read on the internet that you could scrub the nonskid with acetone and a scotchbrite pad instead of sanding. the gelcoat on my boat is really worn so i don`t want to remove anymore than necessary. my boat is a 1973 model. hull #106. thinking about a name for the old boat, any ideas? also the boat came with an outboard. wondering if this will work o.k.
rdubuque
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« Reply #6 on: July 20, 2011, 06:54:41 pm »
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I repainted my non skid with a one part paint with grit.  Works very well, though wears VERY quickly.  I would use a 2 part paint for better durability.  The sand makes a huge difference, though is tough on bathing suits.

Bob
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