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Author Topic: Worm gear for keel  (Read 2942 times)
rdubuque
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« on: October 19, 2004, 12:34:25 pm »
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I had wondered what was the mechanism for keeping the keel from swinging back down after being cranked up.  This past weekend it let loose with the keel slamming down with an uncomforting thud.  I have been tying off the winch handle as a temporary fix and wondered if anyone has any ideas for a simple fix.
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« Reply #1 on: October 19, 2004, 06:43:23 pm »
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I am not sure an answer to that problem but I had same problem the other day it just let loose and snaped the end of the cable winder peice there and almost took out an eye, had to cut it back and put new bolt through. Sad

 
rdubuque
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« Reply #2 on: October 19, 2004, 09:07:20 pm »
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I feel like this could be a weak point on the design.  My keel came loose as I was beating into a short 3 foot chop in 30+knots, the banging was intense.  I was able to get the cable back on after going off on a reach and have since tied off the winch handle.  A more elegant stop might just solve the problem.

The other issue to be addressed for me is the locking pin for the keel.  Mine is bent in a slight way.  It appears that the pin was designed to be sacrificial.  I think I'll try bending it back and hope for the best.  If anyone has replaced one I would be interested.

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« Reply #3 on: October 22, 2004, 01:37:57 pm »
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I had one frabricated at a machine shop a while back just now the plastic keel casing as sliped and blocked the hole Sad

 
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« Reply #4 on: March 25, 2005, 10:25:41 pm »
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Wow! You guys are having all kinds of problems!  That Boston gear box should stay where you leave it. The type of lubricating oil is important. STP is a BIG no-no.. The correct type of oil is listed in the owners manual I think. A drain and fill using ATF type "F" might be worth a try for gearboxes that freewheel.

ALWAYS use your keel locking pin or you WILL get into trouble! Those pins should have a break-a-way groove machined in the top of the pin so it will break, not bend! If you hit something with the keel and bend the pin, you will NOT be able to remove the pin and therefore will not be able to raise your keel! Sooner or later, you will all have to remove the 10? bolts on the top plate and drop the entire keel and it's stainless mounting box out of the hull. What fun! The swing keel is the Midships biggest shortcoming. If, for whatever reason, you are sailing without the locking pin in, do not lower the keel more than 2/3 of the way. That way it can't swing and let the cable jump off the pully, a disaster...

 
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« Reply #5 on: March 26, 2005, 10:21:13 pm »
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I found that out the hard way this past fall.  I was out in a big blow and the waves were 3+ feet, short and steep.  All of the sudden the keel just came loose and started banging like crazy.  Just the sort of sound experience you never want to hear on a sailboat.

After falling off and heading downwind I was able to get the cable back on the pulley and cranked it up a few turns.  No problem.  My fault for not having the pin in.  It was bent, I bent it back and put it in.  I will still keep some tension on the keel.

Bob
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« Reply #6 on: March 26, 2005, 10:23:18 pm »
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Oh yeah, this is my topic.   Old age creeps up in the strangest ways.
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« Reply #7 on: March 27, 2005, 08:46:47 pm »
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I talked to a service technician at Boston Gear this past week.  He was not all that enouraging about my worm gear.  He did suggest trying a 90-100 weight gear oil, without any detergents.  I put some in and will find out the results on Friday.

Sailing season in Iowa begins!

Bob
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« Reply #8 on: May 06, 2007, 08:59:28 pm »
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A friend of mine an I pulled apart the worm gear and drained all of the old oil and replaced it with 85/140 oil.  The gear now holds as it is intended to.  I also put a pin in the step and leave the winch handle in just in case.
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« Reply #9 on: June 13, 2007, 11:02:12 pm »
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Hi,
   I've got Keel problems too!!!!!  Where the heck would I look for the Keel Locking Pin?Huh  Is the Keel Pin attached to the top plate?

 
rdubuque
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« Reply #10 on: June 16, 2007, 03:16:20 pm »
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On my boar the keel locking pin is on the lower step forward of the worm gear.  It is a break-away pin that is hard to get out after it has been bent.  I usually just keep some tension on the keel cable.  If I was headed offshore or was sailing in high winds where a knockdown was of concern I would lock it in.

Me I run aground too often to have to deal with the bent pin all the time.  Good luck, nice to see you here.

Bob
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« Reply #11 on: July 02, 2007, 01:09:20 pm »
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quote:
Originally posted by rdubuque

On my boar the keel locking pin is on the lower step forward of the worm gear.  It is a break-away pin that is hard to get out after it has been bent.  I usually just keep some tension on the keel cable.  If I was headed offshore or was sailing in high winds where a knockdown was of concern I would lock it in.

Me I run aground too often to have to deal with the bent pin all the time.  Good luck, nice to see you here.

Bob


 
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« Reply #12 on: July 02, 2007, 01:25:52 pm »
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Hi Bob,
Thanks for the response....but I am still a little confused.  Is the keel locking pin a vertical or horizontal? I am not sure what you mean by lower step,is the pin located on the plate?
I am also reparing the stop on the cable winder.  When I put the boat in the water, the keel did the infamous free fall!

 
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« Reply #13 on: August 05, 2007, 12:29:13 am »
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Have to admit that I don't fully understand the system myself, but the prvious owner of Hull 270 had redone everything and does understand.  I have not used the pin, and my boat is at the moment, 1,000 miles away.

I do have the labeled photo which I downloaded from this discussion board.  I can't find it on the board any longer, and will investigate.

It looks to be a maximum diameter of 1 inch on the threaded end.  The thread is not defined.  The threaded length is about 1 and 13/16th long, after which the diameter is about 7/8" for a length from the beginning of the thread to the end of the  7/8" of about 4 3/8.  

The pin then has a short taper from 7/8, down to 3/4",  I assume that this taper is to allow alignment of the pin into the hole in the top of the keel when the keel is full down.  

So the approximate length of the three sections is 4 13/16.

The contributor is not credited, but I'm pretty sure my pin is pretty close to that description.  

Others have mentioned a 1/2" breakaway pin.  The 3/4" area could be reduced to 1/2 and still work, but it may be an owner inspired design.

Bob Dubuque seems to have recent experience and our friend Bob from Mexico has many years or experience and STRONGLY RECOMMENDS the use of the pin.

We will continue to seek answers to this riddle.

Steve in San Jose.  Hoping to get back to the boat in early September.

Steve in San Jose
Dawson 26, "Banana Split"
Hull 270
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« Reply #14 on: August 05, 2007, 12:30:16 am »
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ERROR ERROR  my comment about reducing the 3/4 area is incorrect. I meant to say 7/8" inch.

Steve

Steve in San Jose
Dawson 26, "Banana Split"
Hull 270
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